msgreenf

#3 was it

Your volume should only be controlled by one piece of equipment, so what do you mean by "with my Sony TV, Sony receiver and Control4"?

This is NOT related to Control4, it sounds like whoever set up your system has no clue what they're doing. Volume control is 100% solid in my project.

This is where macros can save you a ton of time. If you’re calling a macro from a bunch of places, you can go add the conditional to the macro. 

No. Your Missing nothing

Yes

stop - use the driver you bought - it does all this for you.  You are just wasting time

you would set a variable Party MOde started = true
and then you would have to program every button 
If party mode != True 
>>exectute commands
 
Then when party mode is disabled set party mode started = false

you would set a variable Party MOde started = true
and then you would have to program every button 
If party mode != True 
>>exectute commands
 
Then when party mode is disabled set party mode started = false

Some people were complaining about how the fan comes up under lighting.  Unfortunately this is a Control4 problem which we can't resolve.
Instead what we have done is create a experience button which allows you to select any fan proxy and allow for 3 speed fan control with feedback.  It will auto map the speeds based on capabilties of the fan proxy driver selected.  Mapping will be lowest (1), highest (depending on capabilities) and will the following math for the medium speed (highest / 2 rounded up).
It is a free driver and is bundled with this driver.

Some people were complaining about how the fan comes up under lighting.  Unfortunately this is a Control4 problem which we can't resolve.
Instead what we have done is create a experience button which allows you to select any fan proxy and allow for 3 speed fan control with feedback.  It will auto map the speeds based on capabilties of the fan proxy driver selected.  Mapping will be lowest (1), highest (depending on capabilities) and will the following math for the medium speed (highest / 2 rounded up).
It is a free driver and is bundled with this driver.

I’m not sure where all the hate is coming from. If you don’t like the remote, then don’t buy it and don’t waste your time talking about it. I, personally, like it. The backlighting of the buttons is the only feature I miss. When a new version comes out that adds new features, I’ll sell this one on eBay and buy the new one. That’s just my opinion and what I would do.

So you probably want it 4

Look at the chowmain PJ link driver

Remember with timers, you want to RESET the timer, not start the timer. That resets it to the default and starts it. If you just start it, it will start with whatever random time is remaining on the timer. 

Wow! You are killing it!

So if ANPR wasn't enough for you maybe our new face recognition driver will wow you!
This driver makes use of Microsoft's Face API and allows you to, via a web interface, add the name of people and add faces to those names. The driver will then work similarly to our ANPR driver and once a programming action is triggered (in C4 programming) we will capture the image from any URL or IP Camera (supporting Basic & Digest authentication) and then try and identify a person in it.
If a face is identified then either the Known Face Detected event will be fired which will allow you to make use of the Person Name and Confidence Level (0-100) variables to program based on who was detected. If the face identified is unknown the Unknown Face Detected event will be fired and allow you to program based of that scenario.
The driver also includes the ability use an image in the push notification. The image available will be the image when there was last an identified face. This lets you, for example, have a push notification sent to you with the image taken when there is an unknown person detected.
Images





The Microsoft Face API provides 30,000 free requests per month. Each identification takes between 1 and 3 requests. Requests are also used when adding people and their faces. Generally, the 30,000 is enough for most installs if the trigger for detecting faces is reasonable – i.e. whenever motion is detected may not be reasonable, but when a line is crossed (Hikvision cameras or active beam sensor) would be a better use of the limit.
The driver is available on BlackWire Designs here: https://www.blackwiredesigns.com/store/control4-face-recognition/
 

So... like I was saying (paraphrasing), programming takes a while to get right.  You're programming with events and agents.  Figuring out how agents work is one beast.  Using them in programming and expecting desired results is another beast.
You can shorten the occupancy timer.  It's waiting to turn off the lights when there's no more motion in the pre-set time.  It stops if something moved.  The motion sensor itself has it's own timer but you can't really use it because it's too short.  If you set the occupancy timer agent too low, the lights will turn off if you stand still for too long while eating a sandwich.
To stop the occupancy timer on manual light button presses, add another line of programming.  When ALS Kitchen Lights is invoked, stop kitchen occupancy timer.  Make sure tracking for that scene includes any load and 'Is On" for all lights.   
Most of us struggle with the "tracking" in the Advanced Lighting scene agent.  It takes a bit of practice to get this right.   In order for the desired Active or Inactive event to occur, the tracking conditions need to be adjusted accordingly.  A lighting scene is Active when all the tracking conditions are met.  It gets confusing when you're expecting Active to mean Lights are ON, and Inactive to mean Off.  Active/Inactive just means the tracking conditions are either met or not.  Lights can be at all sorts of levels in a scene.  The tracking conditions you set in the scene dictate whether it's Active or Not.  
When you understand that then you can use it predictably in programming.
Or... just use the driver that was mentioned.

this is 100% wrong - control4 requires no open ports or port forwarding.
 
 

If you have the same ports open then yes your still vulnerable.
So as far as I’m concerned, your IT guy is correct and your C4 dealer is an idiot. I would recommend that you find a new dealer as this one has no ideas about networking and is putting you at risk.
The network is the foundation of your system so while yes you should put in a real network (xfinity has many issues) you should hire a professional.
Hell, any good dealer could preprogram a network, drop ship it and then remote in for final tweaks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

this is 100% wrong - control4 requires no open ports or port forwarding.
 
 

If it's a used wattbox then it's most likely registered to another ovrc account and needs to be released by the previous dealer.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

You need a video to say this?
You can favorite things on T3 and Mobile devices, favorites show up on the remote. Experience Button favorites can be used as well. Properties of the driver include: Lock to Room: Removes the ability to change rooms via the '4' menu. Confirm Room Off: Removes the popup on pressing the power button. Show On Screen as Favorite: Adds/removes the on-screen shortcut (shows up as first favorite). Disable Wi-Fi Sleep: Turns on/off higher-powered WiFi mode, which can improve wifi performance, but decreases battery life. Hard Button Now Playing Control: Allows to use the OK/Channel+/Channel- buttons to play/pause/stop and prev/next on digital (streaming) audio). Remote Focused Buttons: 5 text-based buttons to fire macros/programming. That's it.  There's no other customization.
RyanE

Buy this driver and stop having all the problems

https://drivercentral.io/platforms/control4-drivers/lighting/advanced-lighting-timer/

This is AWESOME question though is there an option to add more than 1000 requests a month? 

Buy this driver and stop having all the problems

https://drivercentral.io/platforms/control4-drivers/lighting/advanced-lighting-timer/