Cyknight

Are you sure it's falling of the Network? ie you tried to ping etc?

13 hours ago, WhyPhy said:

V2 does not have built-in Wi-Fi (optional addition via USB dongle C4-USBWIFI or C4USBWIFI-1). V2 only has the 1 external ZigBee antenna vs. the 3 external antennas on the EA5-V1

Those two antennae were for Wifi, this doesnt' influence ZigBee etc.

13 hours ago, WhyPhy said:

V2 has nternal SSD (vs. conventional rotating hard drive)

Nah, there was never an HDD in them to begin with, it's just an upgrade from the previous flash drive, not a change from spinning disks

13 hours ago, WhyPhy said:

Improvements in the audio circuitry of the EA3-V2 and EA5-V2 for "an even better High Resolution music experience"

An updated muting circuit can help prevent popping noises that occur in some setups

13 hours ago, WhyPhy said:

V2 has "Improvements for Control4 Dealers to make maintenance faster" - no idea what this actually means

This basically means this:

13 hours ago, WhyPhy said:

The V2 ID button is also an LED (the LED in the button provides the same functionality as the caution LED on the EA5-V1 - mostly useful during factor resets)

One of my pet peeves is that doing any restore with a unit rack mounted means I need to call up Mr Fantastic or Stretch Armstrong to do it for me....

And this:

13 hours ago, WhyPhy said:

Rack ears preinstalled on the EA5-V2. Rubber feet are pre-installed on the EA5-V1.

Pretty minor but sure.

13 hours ago, WhyPhy said:

Is there anything else?

Nope

13 hours ago, WhyPhy said:

Is it worth it going for a V2 over a V1?

While they last, get a V1 if the price difference makes sence

5 hours ago, Matt Lowe said:

thats all on the cooperation from amazon, they changed the adb security

Well....not quite exact. The ADB is an Android thing, Amazon just chose to implement the newer version requiring authentication, then didn't publish how that authentication was working.

It looks like it's been in 'transition' for over a year.....Last post in a quick scan seems over 6 months ago...I wouldn't hold my breath

The History Agent needs to be added to your system for it to show I believe, something for anyone not seeing it in general to keep in mind

1 hour ago, knowitall said:

Sorry, jumping to “it’s toast” is not a solution.

THAT i'll readily agree with

1 hour ago, ejn1 said:

Ironically, it came back to life on its own so a bit strange all in all.  

Anything that would cut power to it, even a brief hickup, would cause a similar reboot as well - it SHOULDN'T come back 'just by itself' as a mosfet failure (which is not the same as a mosfet beyond repair) is supposed to require attention.

That said, if it's all working - no harm no foul regardless

? I'm not seeing how that was directed at you - but it was a little harsh - though not unfair.

That said I'd 15-tap first before 13-4-13, or pust in the top bar on the right side to cut power, either way resets the device to clear it, then see if it fails again.

The MyMovies driver is purely to allow the system to incorporate the meta data from the MyMovies server into Control4 (vs using it's built-in, and not nearly as good database management) - so yes you would still want to use that driver.

And yes the Dune players (non-android!) are still compatible with it.

It kind of fell besides the wagon I think because C4 finished the driver and published it....but then the Xfinity firmware took a little while to roll out before it worked.

Mhh. I'll keep an eye out myself - but if I had to guess, the OLEDs are getting 'tired' OR the orange colors are causing an increased rate of image retention.

I'll set one of mine to the same colour and test as well.

LEDs don't burn in. Yes that's period. HOWEVER, they can get image retention, where for a little time afterwards an LED (color) doesn't shut off all the way- I don't know for sure but would imagine OLED suffers the same issue.

Then again, I've never seen it or heard anyone else on it so....

Note that the driver ONLY controls the specified boxes - in other words not the little 'slave' boxes

2 hours ago, pshrop said:

Special thanks to @livitup who discovered that hooking up a 1080 TV with other 4K TVs to a 4K matrix (LU) scales the feed down to 1080 for all TVs. The video feed quality is not driven by what TVs are on at the time, it’s driven by what is hooked up to the matrix. To maintain 4K out of the matrix you would have to section off the 1080 TV via an EDID group. I understand this would isolate sources that could only be used with the 1080 TV. 

Appreciate the help @livitup

It's a bit more complex than that actually. It IS possible (though not all sources play nice with this) to have a source switch between 1080p and 4K (provided it's able to do auto resolution) and/or HDR.

The group EDID settings are fairly new, and this was already possible previously using zone-locking, but the use of that I think proved a bit...challenging... to many so C4 added an easier to use method to the firmware.

Oh and it's also the opposite - you would section off the 4K TVs as a group, but that's semantics

What you're looking to do is pretty basic so no worry there.

You say you have wires from the side of the door to the opener locations?

No wires from the MOTORS anywhere?

If the answer is no, it would be best to just go with the standard garage door kits from C4, or alternatively use MyQ and 3rd party drivers.

46 minutes ago, thecodeman said:

You can use them at the same time. Common use example would be HDMI coming from Directv into hdmi input 1 and digital coax from an EA controller into digital coax input 1.

The audio input on the digital coax is only routed to the analog audio out on the leaf, it's not getting mixed in with the hdmi video or sent down the balun as digital coax.

Not quite, or I understand you wrong.

You CAN send a digital coax input to any HDMI output and use it as an audio path. For example feed a digital coax input from a controller to a receiver connected to an HDMI output.

It doesn't 'mix' as you say it, ie you cant send an HDMI video source down an output and use a coax in to listen to a music source over the SAME output at the same time.

The HDMI and coax inputs are switched completely separately however, so coax input 1 is not in any way tied to hdmi input 1

36 minutes ago, joepap said:

I called my company that manages my system.  They said they would have to come out and do it in person.  I thought it could be done remotely but they didn't like that idea.  Don't really want to spend 300$ for this feature with an in home visit....but man it would make my wife happy!  

What update? Numerous dealers do not like doing it, though we go by the monikker that we do it ... provided we can come by in short order if things go wrong.

That said, plenty of dealers here that offer online services. There;s a section gfor that.

On 9/9/2018 at 8:06 AM, joepap said:

I have to start playing my music on my phone...open the control 4 app...hit my wireless bridge, tell the iphone to stream to the bridge on bluetooth....go back to control 4 and select the rooms I want to play in

Not that I intend to discourage you from doing what youre trying to do with Alexa.

But I do want to point out that there are a LOT of steps in there that don't make sense or are unneeded in a properly setup system, unfortunately your current HC250 limits it right now, you could just get an EA1 installed overtop.

You say you use iPhone....If you do add that EA1 or bigger:

You should be able (to have it set up) to work like this:

Select music on your phone, select the appropriate airplay (can be set to individual rooms and/or multiple rooms - ie 'living airplay' or 'second floor airplay' or 'whole house' airplay) .....

That's it. MMusic starts playing from there.

4 hours ago, pshrop said:

May not be a big deal b/c the only audio sources we use that aren’t derived from video are the integrated music services within C4, which I assume will come from the Ethernet connection and pass thru the LU642D?

You assume wrong, Audio would have to be fed from a controller's audio outputs.

That said, if you have an EA5 for example you could feed it's two digital coax feeds into the LU and use those. And of course any other controllers in your system that have digi coax out (EA3, HC800)

1 minute ago, victoriabam said:

This is truly a very helping guide whenever a homeowner decides to buy a thermostat. These steps of considering space area when buying a air conditioner is true. Heating and Cooling Scarborough
 

LOL marketing much

Yeah something seems up with homeation (formerly thedriverslab) - shame really

Errr. Overheated and screen adhesion came/is coming loose?

4 minutes ago, eggzlot said:

Then you are at their mercy for support and updates

? As opposed to what?

Apple singularly deciding to kill off apps one-sided?

I'm not truly for or against either platform, I just find that the arguments on both sides are silly really.

My one and only point was that worrying about T3 screens because they are on 'android' (and it's not at all as simple as thinking it's on a normal android OS) vs Apple is non-sense.

59 minutes ago, thegreatheed said:

Those were hardware failure rates, which were less often than iOS ones. Also apps failed less often. So, as it pertains to the question at hand,  there's no "buggy android OS" other than in his head.

Exactly.

Sure, I've no doubt a $150 10" android tablet is likely to have a shorter lifespan than an iPad of $450 (though in my personal experience even that isn't always true), but OS wise, both are perfectly stable. Even most "OS" issues on Android were generally due to the device manufacturer's own 'version' or apps AFAIK.

On 7/7/2018 at 7:31 PM, Drake0508 said:

Not always connected. Also I believe the closed OS of the iPad probable doesn’t allow for some of those options. I do have a hard time even thinking about spending the money on a T3. They are extremely overpriced. Remember, they are android tablets. I’ve never owned an android tablet for longer than 1 year due to buggy OS. It just seems like a lot of money for what it is. 

HAH, I've been running Android tablets for years without issue, and have had major issues with my iPad 'due to buggy OS' - don't hang on your singular experience as a reference for all.
 

Quote

but it is 3.2X as expensive than an iPad

 

And while a T3 is pricey, a nice looking mount plus iPad is not 1/3 of the price. Most decent mounts for an iPad cost as much AS the iPad and with numerous iPads (and android tablets, also phones for both) being destroyed due permanently charging....

It's not a huge risk, but tablets like those are not made to be charging 24/7 or wall mounted, and it CAN destroy them, sometimes in a rather scary way (ie potential fire hazard)

It's pretty much all been said above.

Understand that iPads or Android tablets and the app work well - but they don't work AS well.

Always consider native screens for strategic locations at least - what these are depend on the house layout, but some examples based on where I use them are:

-Theatre/media room (portable, and the one place i would strongly advise a portable)

-Cross section of main 'living' areas (ie I have one mounted in the little passage way out from my living room which exits into a landing leading to the dining room, office, kitchen, stairs coming up from the entrance and the hallway leading towards the bedrooms and of course the Living room itself  - and another at the bottom of my basement stairs where it's in the landing splitting off into the Theatre, Games area and family room)

-Master bedroom (I actually use a portable) for going to bed to check and control everything, plus set up the wake-up

-Front entrance/garage door - because it controls everything upon entrance or exit

-Backyard/deck door to get those tunes going!

Of course budget and circumstance will be a huge part of that decision, as well as personal use and preference. As well as what you're actually doing with your system (ie movie selection, lighting and so on). The bold ones above are the ones I would press for the most.