Cyknight

4 hours ago, Dunamivora said:

EA5 vs HC800 in terms of running a project, HC800 is slightly better.

CA10 vs either is said to be 4 times faster.

?

CA-10 is certainly faster. Whether any upgrade is noticeable will depend on the project itself.

Business, people that have advanced lighting would like the extra back-up, people more dependent on the system (ie those with certain disabilities)

QMotion

On 9/5/2019 at 12:16 PM, C4CA said:

It’s controlled via HDBT.

No it's not . HDBaseT doesn't offer control.

I can tell you this, this is the first time I've hear of this happening, and I've done dozens of them.

So again, your issue isn't likely the hdmi switch, but something else.

Could be programming (though who would program a system to turn on TVs on project load is a mystery to me outside of perhaps a commerial setting) - or something else is causing it, including HDMI control on the TV....

As epr above, isolate if it's on controlelr or HDMI switch reboot.

If HDMI switch, remove all but one TV and no sources, then try again.

But I think the real question is why your system is rebooting so often....

Is there a driver - likely (would need full model number to check)

Does it do 'Ambient Mode'/Art Mode? Well that would depend, but quite likely

Assuming the correct driver exists, it can be set to go to art mode on room off, however you CANNOT press room off again to turn it off completely (but a shortcut or custom button, timers, schedules etc can be used to achieve it)

CA-1, EA series V2 are all under 2 years.

New Pakedge WAP.

New Triad Speakers

Triad One is technically under two years (Cedia 2017)

Just saying

? Odd that it would do that, but yes thats not going to be coming from the hdmi switch, more likely the controller, or something else entirely....is HDMI control on on the tvs?

To be clear - C4 projects are NOT locked to a dealer, and the project can always be recovered by any dealer (provided the main controller is operational) with a local connection (ie on-site or using teamviewer, or if available my.control4.com credentials)

Mind you, it's sometimes more efficient to start a project from scratch vs major reprogramming.

I would reboot just the bus ethernet gateway (pin point reset button, just press and release) and see if that brings the keypads back online.

Other question would be - can you control lighting using a touchscreen or the app (or even a remote)

It's long dead. While it may be possible to do something using the serial event driver by domosapiens (drivercentral.io) I can't imagine that the time spent to make that work even half decent makes any sense.

3 hours ago, pinkoos said:

And, by turned on, I mean that C4 has to activate that speaker in that particular room and then Sonos would need to start playing

So you're sure there is no setup done to automatically turn on the room when Sonos is detected to be playing?

If not, than my first thoguh is to check if you have any wake-up that got set by accident

16 hours ago, brucecampbell said:

I have an active 4sight account, but in one screen it show as nothing active:

4SIGHT -  Your account does not have an active 4Sight subscription.
 

But the very next line clearly states 4sight expires in Sept 2019

I believe this is known and being looked at

16 hours ago, brucecampbell said:

I now get this message in the 'Voice Control' menu option:

We did not detect support for voice control in your Control4 system. Voice control requires linking your Control4 system to a voice provider, such as Amazon Alexa.

Try installing Amazon Alexa on your mobile device, have that app discover devices in your home, then return here to configure those devices for voice control. If you still do not see the connected devices in your home listed here, contact your Control4 Smart Home Profor assistance.

So....do you have Alexa setup using C4's driver or Epic's driver?

Shairbridge sometimes get 'stuck' in a session, especially when a phone leaves the wifi without ending the airplay session...

A reboot of the main controller will reset it, or if you have HE composer you can go to the driver, rename the broadcast name in the settings (and rename it back again if you like) and it'll clear as well.

So...how did you bind it to the keypad button?

You cannot change rooms on remote through programming

2 hours ago, eggzlot said:

There really is no "best"

Agreed, though aesthetics can come into play for the choice as well.

Short answer - YES you can use a T3 as a full keypad

Personally, I would advise one dedicated keypad per floor, in a central location from where people will be, in easy reach of the main entrances of the main floor.

11 hours ago, time2jet said:

I do like the Interlogix Simon XTi-5, but can’t find real great integration information.

Oh here's the information - the Simon line has ZERO ability to integrate (no expansion modules possible).

Also no clue why you like it, it's a horrible piece - but to each their own.

11 hours ago, time2jet said:

Here’s my question, (and full C4 integration is a must, so much that I want to use a C4 touchpad in lieu of the security systems keypad). Can I use a C4 touch wall pad at my front door when leaving to arm the system, control an HVAC scene, a lighting scene, locking my C4 Kwickset locks, assuring my garage door is closed, etc).

You bet

11 hours ago, time2jet said:

I also want to use the motion sensors for dual purposes (ie security when away, but triggering lighting when I am home)

For sure, though there may be a small delay (wireless motion takes some time to report to panel, panel to C4 is usually fast)

11 hours ago, time2jet said:

I obviously want to use my remotes or the C4 app and OSD fir the same.

Yep, security is available on oall interface

11 hours ago, time2jet said:

What system did you use?

Concord, PowerPC and NEO (Interlogix and DSC).

They're all fine. Leaning towards NEO these days, just has nices options available.

Availability of other panels will depend on where you're at, and even interlogix isn't readily available everywhere.

Honeywell is the other big one often available, but it's integration is not nearly as smooth as DSC options are.

10 hours ago, LollerAgent said:

Which experience button are you using for the colors?

It would be called RGB off the top of my head. It's just a toggle 'bulb' that shows different colors that you pre-program (ie 2 shades of green, blue, red, purple etc).

It's better than tinkering with slider all the time, but it's a far stretch from a color wheel

On 7/30/2019 at 7:07 PM, LollerAgent said:

This would be a huge bummer.

Yes it is.

11 hours ago, Matt Lowe said:

C4 reasoning is crap. 

Mhhh. The reasoning is not completely unreasonable - I have seen some minor issues with some of our bigger 3rd party lighting projects. I could see where much larger setups could be a problem. How big of a problem I imagine also depends on what 3rd party lighting.

That said, if Scenes aren't supported, it should be handled differently - ie don't allow adding them to scenes at all to begin with. Of course the fact that it DID work (to whatever degree) for so long makes this that much more painful.

Let's just say I was NOT happy to learn of it.

Hue (and other 3rd party lighting) is apparently not truly supported in C4 Advanced Lighting anymore apparently. You have to program off of the scene vs having them in the scene.

Homeation/TheDriversLab had a driver, but I'm not even sure they're actively in the business anymore?

That said if you want a better interface for the RGB stuff:

https://drivercentral.io/platforms/control4-drivers/lighting/colour-wheel/

On what device? Make sure you're not just looking at the print on the block, but also on the controller, so you're not accidentally connected to a relay...

-Test sensor inputs with a piece of local wire that you can just jumper sig to +12v and check reading, then cut wire and see what it says.

You say there's continuity....is there continuity across when the contact is open? Because there shouldn't be....continuity means there's a path for power to go through, if with the contact open or better yet for testing disconnected, there should NOT be a path, meaning there's a short somewhere.

I don't think the wire length is an issue in this scenario, as you keep reading closed - if you're reading open all the time, there could be too much voltage drop.

Which takes about ... 5 seconds

Zero trust?

Zero experience?

Zero use?

Point being you're leaving it to interpretation.

A new insurance agent opened up shop close to me. I know I won't be going there....

Newsham insurance (New Sham).

Naming is oh so important.

Wish you good fortune though.

70m on 22 gauge wire at 12v dc would see a drop of over 60% at 1A - so what you see isn't surprising. If you'd need to draw more, I doubt it could support 2 amps at that distance.

If possible, use 2 strands, that'll change the drop to 30% a 1 amp.

For a motion, you can simply use 3 wires (combine the positives, split at the device) and you could try using at least 2 conductors on the positive side of the LED feeds.

Failing that, you'll have to get a powersuply with adjustable voltage (ie built-in potentio meter) like a MeanWell A or AB LED powersupply. Even then, at that gauge, over those distances.....

You may need to use a 24v powersupply to get 12V over a single pair of 22 gauge conductors)at 2 amps....

https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html

Don't just calculate and assume though, always measure before connecting your LEDs!