Cyknight

If older, there's a chance they are on embernet, not pro.

It should be a HUGE pain to get out once installed (there's a tool that is normally required to get it out. The cable shouldn't be your issue though, unless it's somehow bunching up instead of folding back flat.

First guess would be that the back box is warped (not properly cut out, or overtightened)

15 hours ago, Gary Leeds UK said:

IR Extender ?

I guess...

1 hour ago, Amr said:

Where is this driver?

It's freely available on the dealer forums.

7 hours ago, Kahn said:

BUT

Nope, no buts.

17 hours ago, Gary Leeds UK said:

You have to pay for a dealer to swich drivers - so they will be a cost - This ranges. 

Also you have to purchase and run IR buds so the cost could be $100`s

For a few IRs?

12 hours ago, pinkoos said:

is now going to cost me hundreds of dollars

? Why? IR driver won't require any upgrades to the system as such.

Why? Distributor doesn't have direct influence to that, and as discussed many times before, the limitations of intrgration are most likely due to the streaming services' demands (or some of them). That wouldn't change no matter who distributes it.

I don't disagree, much rather do a passive one - Triad custom or others, but the demand fas for an optical one so I'm guessing wiring is lacking.

Triad custom soundbar + Triad One would be my preference.but again, other similar options exist as well.

15 hours ago, Arjay12345 said:

re there real differences between the three brands, or are they in reality churned out from the same factory?

Heh, actually, I believe you've just hit the three true separate producers of cameras.

Surprised he didn't suggest Pakedge, which is Lilin but with custom firmware made for C4.

If you're concerned with such things as China potentially looking into your cameras and believe in the idea that chinese manufacturers are in on a full on conspiracy - Lilin or Pakedge are your likely choices.

But honestly all three are fine cameras.

True with Lilin/Pakedge you pay a bit more, but you pay for the added support available.

Blue Iris is a great idea, but keep in mind that not all dealers are willing to work with a non-standard setup like it. I'm not saying they shouldn't, but there's plenty out there that only want to deal with more 'cookie cutter' setups, and there's something to be said for such an approach (if it works and works well, every time....)

No clue on REOlink itself but there's a driver available.

Also Bluesound.

And an EA main controller....

Honestly the current IR driver floating around is so well made, and the new IP driver such a hassle, that we've just gone to IR.

6 minutes ago, knowitall said:

Sometimes it’s easier to start over. 

LOL, got one of those coming up - it'll be complete tear-down and start from scratch.

7 hours ago, ILoveC4 said:

Gotcha. Yeah, agreed 100%. My plan this time is to try and put the power down one side, and everything else down the other side.

This is a good method, though depending on layout and rack we also do power in the 'middle' of one side keeping all other wires towards the 'back'

On 9/22/2019 at 12:22 AM, ILoveC4 said:

I’d love to hear from you professionals what your methodology is around which equipment occupies which part of the rack

Problem is that every system is a little different - and sometimes you just have to 'deal' with whatever wire length you're given (especially when other trades happily cut or move your wires )

But generally, weight at the bottom! (amps, surround receivers). Then for ease of wiring usually matrix next moving up, then video switch if you're using it for audio output (C4 LU series, JAP etc) from sources, then sources.

Controller placement and networking is usually up high, unless there's lots of local devices needing IR or serial, then there could be an IO mid-rack.

We used to try and get video at the top to get 'rid' of all the wires for it early on, but with HDMI more and more being the only connection, we're using HDMI switches with it built in, so they've shifted to be closer to the audio matrix.

This is of course assuming single rack setup. When doing multiple rack, wiring efficiency comes into play.

On 9/22/2019 at 6:53 AM, Froggy1976 said:

I thought it was a major pain to change ISP but glad it s not.

Hate to break it to you, but it CAN be - but that all depends on the current network setup.

It could be the easiest thing in the world, or it could crash everything.

Fortunately the latter is very uncommon, and usually it's not a very big deal.

ISP router can be bridged? Zero issues. It can't be, now you're possibly opening up a can of worms. Can it do DMZ and your own router is not on the same sub-net? Not major, can't DMZ or is on the same Subnet.......

Not that I intend to scare you off from doing it, but I don't want you going in thinking it's as simple as flipping a switch and get burned.

As for the email address - just log in and change it on-line after all is said and done.

Personally, solder and shrink tube.

20 hours ago, sonic30101 said:

My guess is it will be $500-$700. Will still get 2 of them though. One for the family room the other for the theater

MY guess closer to $700-1000

The question is if that's sell-able on the larger scale vs a few of them.

My guess on THAT is likely not.

On 9/22/2019 at 11:08 AM, msgreenf said:

everyone loves the price of T3, right?

That's my whole point, yes.

And would you also be happy to pay double to quadruple the price for the above remotes?

3 hours ago, ejn1 said:

Just for clarity though, can one z2IO control the 2 doors with sensing if you use the wireless tilt sensor?

1 hour ago, Don Cohen said:

Well, just reporting back what was confirmed to me,

The answer is indeed YES.

You need one relay to control (almost any) garage motor, so you CAN control 2 of them with it. C4's garage door integration allows binding most any relay and sensor to the driver - they do NOT have to b e on the same device.

Note that as mentioned, MyQ or similar garage doors cannot be relay controlled on the motor itself, you'll have to solder to the push button (or an extra push button) to use relay control - or use the available 3rd party MyQ driver from drivercentral.io

1 hour ago, david@berto.co.uk said:

If you want to access the cameras on the 192.168.254.0 subnet you just need to set the default gateway on each camera to 192.168.254.1 and then set a static route on your router to route the 192.168.254.0 via the lan IP address of your NVR. 

Also an option, though not all routers will support this - using the virtual host option on HikVision (or apparently at least some of the Luma NVRs) is much simpler to set up.

You list a GREAT setup. Not cheap (meaning not cutting corners) by any means, but I expect you'd find it'll be rock-solid.

1 Z2IO would do the relay AND sensor for a garage door - it wouldn't be able to do both those things for TWO garage doors, but yes you can certainly control 2 doors with it.

Sensing could be done by a second Z2IO placed closer to the doors to wire rail sensors, could use tilt sensors, could use existing sensors to a security panel as well.

Personally, preference is security, rail sensor to Z2IO (or similar) last being a battery tilt sensor. Less batteries is better. But any of them do work.

Keep in mind that because of how BlueStacks runs, the C4 app isn't running on your local network, so 4Sight is required to make this work - but it works very well otherwise.