Cyknight

You cannot use the same principal as above when using sub amps, because you can't BIND them to the rooms they are in - because there are existing binding required for the 'regular' amps.

In that scenario I would just use programming.

Simply put:
 

WHEN [room] POWER_STATE_CHANGES
IF [room] is on
	Close relay [room sub]
	stop
Open relay [room sub]

Hang on there.

Am I correct in assuming these are SUB amps for additional subwoofers in certain rooms?

Because that changes the situation a little bit.

Yeah the included year's subscription code gets added to the dealer account if memory serves.

KODI is still the 'best' 3rd party driver in function and design.

Emoji Experience Icons is the funniest one (actually started more as a joke)

Hardware wise....not sure really. Hard to think of one thing that REALLY jumps out above the rest.

I'm thinking people are confusing what 'apps' on control4's T3 actually MEAN.

On 10/21/2019 at 12:33 PM, thecodeman said:

If you have a security+ 2.0 opener, have your dealer buy one of these

https://www.garadget.com/product/security-2-0-dry-contact-adapter/

Hook it up to a C4 Z2IO along with a rail mount contact on your door. Program the contact and relay to the general garage door driver. 

Now you have an official integration that doesn't rely on the internet or some unofficial connection to the MyQ service. 

This is really the better solution. The Cinegration driver is much better than the houselogix one ever was (it's certainly not just a clone) - but the garadget unit is so friggin cheap I can't solder up one myself for the price....well for a paying client at least.

12 hours ago, ILoveC4 said:

I appreciate you saying that, but I know with confidence it isn’t the case. 

Isn't it funny what a lot of people know with confidence?

9 hours ago, eggzlot said:

otherwise why did C4 buy them if they are going to release a minimally updated SR-270 that looks like the 260 that looks like the 250.

INTERFACE design is why they bought Neeo more than anything. See 3.x updated interface 

1. Pretty sure I have it running on one or two systems but I'll have to check

2. Heard about this one, YMMV, but I've heard that you just have to remove and re-add it as a favourite

3. Can't speak for fixes and their timing, but I'm aware of an issue in certain circumstances getting audio from DS2 to T3's if that is what you mean.

21 hours ago, Psykopup said:

Roku, Chromecast or Amazon Fire instead. He insisted that Apple TV was the way to go.

To be fair, Chromecast is limited by it's nature, and while a neat device I occasionally use, it's not a replacement. Amazon Fire has had it's own share of issues, so I can't truly blame dealers for trying to steer people away from it.

Roku though....or even use an Android TV box (NVidia Shield) with Videostorm's USBIR device....

To be COMPLETELY fair, overall AppleTV has worked quite well up until recently.

21 hours ago, Psykopup said:

Then, I learned that they did not turn on automatic updates in my C4 system.

Hmm. The system NEVER updates automatically, this would be driver updates, and I have to point out that the older in driver option to auto update has been dead for awhile.

Also, the newer driver manager auto update (compatible devices only) is actually off by default, and it's not exactly 'in your face' to turn it on so it IS easily missed (happens to me too sometimes, though a subsequent visit or even remote log-in usually catches it)

1 hour ago, Waring192 said:

but I don’t think you can just plug the Aeotec USB stick into the controller can you

No, you cannot

1 hour ago, Waring192 said:

ust wondering what they are like when the Z-Wave module etc is added to the EA3? Are they reliable etc?

Can't comment on the device specifically (not even sure it's supported - C4's list of compatible devices is limited) but Control4's Zwave setup in general is rock solid

1 hour ago, Waring192 said:

but if I added window sensors would you be able to create something in C4 to ‘Arm’ the house via touch panel etc when leaving so it would be like an alarm system with an alert to our phones and even a alarm sound in/outside the house?

Must stress that you should NEVER do this as a life-saving device, nor can it be seen as a replacement for a true monitored security system.

Hover, yes there would be ways.

Asll you would really do is add a variable that you set to true or false with a generic experience button to change it.

From there, whatever programming you want ot execute when away just uses that variable :

WHEN contact opens

IF variable 'armed' is true

---do your thing

11 minutes ago, Gene said:

Great companies get consumers to buy things because they show the customer how they should 'want' something even if its something the customer really doesn't 'need'

So do great frauds.

3 hours ago, eggzlot said:

And making them pretty would make them less of a long term play?

Uhm, yes, by your own example of being several 'designs' behind. Those designs have come and gone and yet....

5 hours ago, eggzlot said:

Ask Mr Shakespeare

Bill tells me he heartily disagrees

1 hour ago, eggzlot said:

Functional yes but when you look at what other companies are rolling out it is 2-3 iterations behind design wise

I don't completely disagree. But then again, that also means you haven't had to buy 2-3 devices since then to keep them working.

6 minutes ago, eggzlot said:

a rose by any other color would be just as ugly and outdated 

Are you calling roses outdated?

33 minutes ago, Gene said:

I Agree! So true!  I had to laugh at the DOS comment...Good one!  Atleast its orange not green! HA!  Hopefully they will come up with something people will want! (Crestron, etc... all redo and produce new products people buy even if they are simple but with a different spin/innovative idea...hopefully C4 will do the same now that SnapAV is in charge).

You could make it green. Or Blue, or Purple, Or....

And if it looks like the old Neeo....I still stand by WHY?

Want a touchscreen, use a phone.

Want buttons? Don't use the Neeo....

You shouldn't have to - the chances of a short in the relay itself are next to nothing - if anything it would happen if the wire connections get messed up, are left too long, etc.

If you wanted to add a fuse, it would depend on the trigger voltage for the really. Most are DC, but it could be AC. If it's a DC voltage, you can get cheap inline fuse holders that take standard car fuses. Car fuses are generally rated up to 36VDC, just like controller relays are. Amps don't matter too much, but I'd probably want to get a lower rated one, like 5A or even a 3A

Off the top of my hat, 36v AC or 24v DC - either one at 2 amps. That's per relay (it really is just what the controller's relay material is rate for)

Note that an avergae relay won't post the amps used, but is generally under 0.2 amps each.

As you're in 240v world, I can't comment on part numbers, or specific details, but yes, you do 'simply' connect a control4 dimmer or switch to the wiring, and they then wirelessly (over ZigBee) talk to a controller, no extra devices required.

Do note however that a dealer is required to setup the main controller, connect lighting and program the overall system.

I can't help but think you're trying to do too much on a single button here.

The basics:

-You can program a button to simply toggle a the load. Clean and simple

-You can BIND a button to a load and it will do the above AND allow for press and hold dimming (must be done by dealer) It's not impossible to do it in programming, but it never works nearly as smoothly

-You can program towards single tap, double tap and triple tap for diffente functions, that;s fine HOWEVER:

-1 IF you BIND a light to a button with multi-tap programming, that binding takes priority and will always happen

-2 If you are doing double/triple tap porgramming you should use the single tap for the 'main' programming, NOT the 'pressed' programming because 'pressed' triggers every time, similar to the above.

One other thing to note about when-then is that it REQUIRES 4Sight to function, HE programming does not.

On 10/20/2019 at 11:21 AM, Crustyloafer said:

I find a single sheet of plasterboard does not have a massive impact on the 5GHz performance and there also has to be a balance between outright performance and aesthetics/visibility for the clients I work for. 

But that single sheet sideways could be numerous feet long....

But I don't truly disagree, aesthetics counts, may just mean paying for more devices.

Besides, same trick applies, and you can always choose to pop the line out a few feet away and ceiling mount it.

18 hours ago, brucecampbell said:

Is there any problem with using the same relay connections from my HC800 to run two relay?
Can I assume that as long as the voltage drop over two cables does not prevent the relay closing, this will be just fine?

 

I simply have two garden light transformers running independent circuits, each is hooked up to a relay.
I don't need independent control, simply want both on and off at the same time.
And I have limited connections available on the controller.

 

 

So you're running two 'external' relays and operating them from an HC800 relay connection?

Shouldn't be a problem, unless those relays require some insane amount of amps to keep closed.

13 minutes ago, thecodeman said:

I had heard it was the other way around, that BBY decided to do Savant instead. Either way, you're able to switch to another local dealer as others have said. 

Ugh, I'd dread having a Savant setup by Magnolia based on what I've heard...

To be clear, Control4 is NEVER locked down to a dealer, so you're free to change whenever you want. So yes, the answer is simply...find another dealer.