Cyknight

1 hour ago, time2jet said:

@chopedogg88@msgreenf

Thank you guys for the advice.

I came home and was walking past the rack to get my monitor and I figured it’d take 30 seconds to swap out the HDMI cable versus 20 minute to grab and set up the monitor. Why not?

Yep, that was it. Sometimes it’s the simplest things.

Certainly doesn’t make me happy that such an expensive AudioQuest cable failed. But does feel good that it was as simple as that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm. Jsut a though but, you may want to try putting that cable back in and see if you get image - could still be a handshake issue (disconnteing a cable will force many devices to re-do the EDID configuration automatically

On 10/27/2019 at 1:34 PM, ILoveC4 said:

The sensor goes to the contact. Just use SIG (signal) and GND (ground).

Uhm, you'd use 12v and SIG

39 minutes ago, anon2828 said:

 But then how does the Control4 dimmer interface or work at all?

You would set the switch to 2-button function and hide the load to prevent it from turning off. Then some programming to ensure it's always on.

The Hue Bulb will do the 'turning off' instead, and it will show up as a light much like the regular dimmers and switches. My advise is to use a 'on-off'/switch driver in addition to the RGB driver, and use that to tun the light off completely.

As mentioned, Hue (and others) are not supported in Advanced Lighting Scenes at the moment - indeed I suspect they won;t be at all, and that more 3rd party lighting is going to be removed. Has to do with how C4 ramps and tracks, vs how some of the 3rd party devices do so.

Instead you program against the scene activating/deactivating to turn on/off any lights that are Hue.

1 hour ago, dentalben said:

Should I power down the Leaf matrix before changing a TV that's connected to it? I'm essentially disconnecting the HDMI and ethernet cables (from the balun to the TV, not the network switch to the balun).

Yes.

Any HDBaseT connection (that carries power) creates a risk wehn unplugging, and while you technically may not need to disconnect that, it's just smart to unplug the matrix briefly, then back in when you're done.

On 9/22/2019 at 12:51 PM, BuffaloC4 said:

Is it free? Just downloaded it, runs great, but assumed it wouldn’t be free.

Well, define free - you pay for it in game adds that pop-up on the load screen and their recommended games to earn extra bluestack points etc.

But yeah it's a pretty nice piece of work for no 'cash' cost.

You can't - because it's how bluestacks operates (it emulates it's won network).

There is another emulator available that does NOT do that I think I heard does work, but the name escapes me at the moment. If I come across it I'll post it.

It's called a DS2 or DSmini

Except that you should bury the commands in the IF statement....

The C4 Enttec isn't as smooth, which is what I assume you're talking about - the linked driver above is much better (though still can get laggy in very large DMX setups)

2 minutes ago, icefloe01 said:

But there is no USB option on the tube model. At all

So...don't get the tube model

BBC on TuneIn should be fixed currently

1 hour ago, Mike_S101 said:

yes that's correct 

I believe there is a work around posted for this (my own servers are are unergoing a major overhaul so I can't try it on my own system)

WHEN [room] VIDEO_SELECTION_CHANGES
IF CURRENTLY_SELECTED_DEVICE is Digital Media
	Select Dune as the source in [room]

A few caveat:

Doesn't work with multiple dunes available in a room

It stops you from going direct to music when you have a video source playing already (in other words, to play music in a room, that room must first be off)

As an aside, if my information is correct (again, I'm unable to test it myself at the moment) you should also be able to manually select the Dune box with the remote to begin with (after selecting the movie) and you should find it playing.

On 1/4/2019 at 2:15 PM, sonic30101 said:

hard-wired is definitely ideal

Old post I know, but I would have to say this isn't "ideal" - it's a REQUIREMENT

Can't speak for specific model (as you didn't state the exact model) but:

Yes in IP and mini apps here in NA

Downside? Yeah - didn't Samsung block IP control in the UK?

MyQ garage door openers (Liftmaster or other) don't have a regular contact to open/close, it's in fact a power and data connection. So if you use the old way of connecting those, you're essentially just shorting the motor

Reboot main controller and target controller

There's NEVER announcements on when something is fixed/comes out/etc.

I'm assuming you're referring to the issue where the media player isn't selected as a source, and remotes state 'digital media' instead of the device?

Anoter option of course is to get a standard wired outdoor rated security motion, and wire it to a zigbee contact that you can get to (ie drill a small hole into a garage and wire straight through)

9 minutes ago, Don Cohen said:

Thanks.  That's actually one of the ones I posted above.  They were the ones who suggested using Silicone to seal it.

But the fact that you've been using it like this, without any silicone or other modification, is quite encouraging.  That would be a much 'cleaner' solution than the Hue suggested above (although I appreciate his posting about that option): one device, one (free) driver.

Does yours have any indirect protection from rain/snow (like eaves above, or other structure)?

I suppose it's technically ever so slightly covered in that it's got a ~10inch overhang about 4 feet above it. Then again it's north facing, so the WORST weather is gunning straight at it.

As mentioned, it's not officially rated as such, and it's at your own risk and mileage may vary - I'm just relating how I've personally used it.

Just get the right size plug, measure the barrel and order one, or see if a local electronic specialist carries them

3 hours ago, jebt2921 said:

Curious what makes using the Z2io and contact sensors better than the Axcess Relay and contact sensors?
 

Nothing really. You can also wire to controllers directly. Or use other integrated contact/relay options.

https://www.axxind.com/smarthome/motion-sensor/

Not officially outdoor rated.

Been on the outside of my house for years, temp ranges from -35C to +35C, snow, wind, rain, sleet, hail, freezing rain you name it. Still going strong.

9 minutes ago, ILoveC4 said:

Does that make sense?

It absolutely makes sense

4 minutes ago, ILoveC4 said:

Thank you. So in this case, I have Control4 contacts and relays, and I have the 12v trigger in on the amp.

Would I make a jumper from the +12v on the contact to the com on the relay, then from the NO on the relay to the 12v trigger on the amp?

It DEPENDS on if the episode amp requires a true 12v signal, or if it generates it's own 12v (easy to test, just short the connection on the sub amp - if it stays off, it needs external 12v)

sensor (or external powersupply) 12v to COM

NO to 12v+ on amp

sensor ground (or powersupply neg) to ground/neg on the sub amp

If it supplies it's own 12v, then it's just a default relay connection - sub amp to a relay, one wire to COM, one to NO

Simply put: NO you cannot have a secondary controller as a fail-over device.

The ONLY work-around option for redundancy is to have a separate controller (should be of the same type) that has a copy of the project on it, with this second controller ID'd in place of the 'main' controller. That allows you to have one of the two on at a time and control the system (to some degree, as the second controller won't be registered, it won't allow remote access or app control).

The next trick is getting one to power up if the other goes down. You'd have to accomplish this logic OUTSIDE of control4 with a sensor/relay setup. This can be done, tie a sensor 12v output to a SPDT relay that controls a 120v relay in turn that's SDTP and either provides power to one or the other controller.

It's POSSIBLE, but it's finicky at best, plus you have to make sure the projects are identical.

You can even take it a step further, and have the two controlelrs on two accounts (with 4sight et al) and you'd even retain app control and more.

It's just so much cheaper and easier to get a heavy-duty UPS, maybe even slap a CA-10 up top.