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Cyknight

Control4 Dealer
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Posts posted by Cyknight

  1. 7 hours ago, Matt Lowe said:

    might be easier for you to list your specific equipment and setup.  to see if it applicable.

     

    This. The list is long, and no I'm not going to list all of them, especially as some of them are WRONG and not supported.

     

    If you're able to tell me what equipment you have, how it's wired up, and preferably what programming you have I could specify what is needed.

     

    Yes I realize that is NOT an easy question. Alternatively, your dealer ought to be calling in to C4 techsupport to look at it and fix it, or you can see if one of the dealer on here that do remote support and programming can help (nope, I'm not one of them) Think Matt is though 😉)

  2. To be clear, they are NOT the same! Dimmers have a pull out bar on thd top, and they don't sit properly on switches. And a 'full shutdown' option is generally required by code, so you can't use a switch on a dimmer either (never even tried to fit them on)

    Also, be careful in that the OLDEST dimmers and switches CANNOT have their faceplates changed (or use their faceplates on a newer one).

    You'll recognize those by the thin copper band visible on the side when the cover is off.

  3. Probably the advertisement picture, I've seen C4 stuff show up on it.

     

    What are the LED bulbs rated at for wattage, and how many per circuit?

     

    Are the dimmable bulbs? I've seen a similar issue on bulbs that weren't marked dimmable - they still dimmed, but would have this issue (though it was all the time - ie they wouldn't 'work for a bit' then start glowing)

  4. HDBaseT is closely monitored, and all uses the same chip from the same manufacturer, so as long as it's officially licensed, they're usually worth a trial at least.

    I've no idea what normal market prices for the UK are, but those would look like a good deal at consumer rates, but nothing crazy for a basic unit - ie Monoprice etc are at similar prices.

     

    Note that not all HDBaseT are equal, many brands have added features that not all units support, such as network, serial, ir in some combination, PoE or PoC and so on.

  5. 4 hours ago, thegreatheed said:

    I totally agree that all your issues sound like they're network caused.

    Same here, your issues are network, not Control4 as such.

    Quote

    I can still use AirPlay so my network is fine, I believe.

    Oh the times I've hear dthat (or something similar) 😉

    No, airplay being up doesn't mean your network is fine. It's just not that simple.

     

    By your own description you have Xfinity, Apple and Google all running together.

    ISP routers are pretty much garbage and a write off.

    Very limited personal experience with Google, but depending on setup, it's a Mesh wifi network, which is not recommended.

    Get rid of the apple stuff for the same reason.

     

    Don't scrap Control4 and start over with something else.

    Scrap the current networking setup and start over with something else...even if you intend to drop Control4, you should STILL drop the existing network setup and start that over.

  6. 2 hours ago, Jshap1 said:

    The proposal I received was to add an EA5 to the main rack and an EA1 in the bedroom location by the standalone receiver. Does this make sense?

    Yes, though you could push to keep the HC800 and not get the EA5.

     

    Note that you would loose:

    -Onscreen on the HC800 (may or may not impact you

    -Audio quality for distributed audio (no HD audio on HC800 outputs - whether that is important to YOU is another matter).

     

    And this wouldn't be a 'hard' upgrade. A little time consuming to get the firmware on the Sony receivers if memory serves, though you could see if you can do this yourself (not sure mind you!) and kill off some sitting around labor cost.

    Adding the EA1 is little effort, but depending on the location you may need a network switch (as you now have to feed the receiver and the EA1) and an HDMI to feed the EA1 into the receiver. Oh and maybe a powerbar if it's full at the location....

  7. The older dimmers are NOT as good as dimming LEDs as the new ones (especially APD ones) and have a considerably higher minimum wattage3 which can come into play with LED.

    Many LEDs will dim just fine on them, others may have limited dimming ability or flicker while dimming.

     

    As for how long they'll be supported - no-one can answer that.

  8. 3 hours ago, burowyako said:

    My family member isn't happy with the video quality and is looking to upgrade.

    As per above, there's HD cameras over coax available. https://www.snapav.com/shop/en/snapav/luma-surveillance-501-series-dvr---16-channel-lum-501-dvr-8ch

    These have full C4 drivers to view cams on a system and can handle HD-TVI cameras (Doesn't have to be the same brand at all) to 1080p

    I'm thinking that may just be the easiest way to go about it.

    Alternatively, you can get HD analogue to IP converters as well and use many other available options (including blue iris)

  9. 20 hours ago, Waring192 said:

    Hi all,

    More questions I'm afraid! I have purchased some Control4 dimmers. 2 x 1 dimmer and 1 x 2 dimmer which are UK faceplate style (square). I have everything but the buttons/keypad on the way so I was wondering what is the product codes (not including colour) for the buttons required? 

    Cheers

    With the side note that I'm not familiar with the UK versions, I want to point out that in North America the rockers can be used on keypads, but keypad buttons CANNOT be used on dimmers (or switches). No, you can't just use the '3 height' buttons instead of a rocker, because the 'pin' that pushes in the actual button on the dimmers/switches isn't the same as when you use a rocker

  10. First question - do you have a commmon wire.

    Chances are yes with a nest, but if the answer is no, don't use the old C4 thermostat.

     

    As for Nest T-Stat, currently there is no integration available since works with nest was cut (C4 has stated they are working on getting it back via works with google assistant though) - but I don't know the level of integration with Control4 that will be available.

    As such, it's impossible to compare the two, as we're not sure yet what the new driver will allow.

     

    5 hours ago, Waring192 said:

    bviously the new C4-THERM-WH is better (I guess?!)

    To briefly answer this - yes. You can think of the aesthetics of the piece what you will, but the current t-stat is able to control a LOT of heating options and setups, works well on batteries and is proven to be very dependable in all setups I've seen so far.

     

    Not that the old t-stat had a high failure rate, but it was limited what it could work with, and basically was not able to operate on battery.

  11. It's a useless article really. There's clearly no reference for the writer to work from, no device in hand nor likely one seen in person at all.

     

    48 minutes ago, RAV said:

    in the press release he wrote his article from.

    exactly. He may as well be reviewing the latest x-ray machine as seen in his dentist's office. Actually he'd be liable to be more reliable to do that as he'd actually be able to see the device, and see it do something.

    First line of the article:

    Quote

    Lots of companies make universal remotes

    You may as well be comparing how well my front door was made with how well my new tv's image is.

  12. 1 hour ago, ILoveC4 said:

    but it does seem like he has always done everything 3 times more, 3 times harder, 3 times faster, etc...

    Oh I haven't for sure, I don't claim to either.

    If anyone feels like it, I'm pretty sure I've made comments on anyone coming on a forum stating their 'special reason' to know anything better than anyone else on any matter.

    I can't be bothered to state it again, in no small part because it doesn't matter.

     

    It sure gave me a good laugh though!

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