RyanE

then you ain't looking for control4

As msgreenf says, you can add *all* mini apps within the Roku driver, but there's no way to add just a single specific mini app from the Roku driver.
 
RyanE

But If you add them all then you can use the navigator settings to hide what you don't want 

it adds mini drivers for what is _actually_ installed on your Roku that has mini drivers

It's in an internal (dealer-only) beta, and I don't believe the documentation has been publicly released.
RyanE
 

Very helpful guys - I appreciate it!

Yes, the armored only goes for 2-3 feet, then regular wire.  Probably not the point, but I don't like the style of the linked, they mostly show them mounted on the floor, which I find problematic (wires at floor level are never a great idea, IMHO).
I believe I just used dolphin crimps (https://www.amazon.com/Dolphin-DC-100P-Super-Connector-Pcs/dp/B000JP7FIQ) on the ends of the armored wire going to my stranded 4-conductor that goes down to the basement.  You're welcome to use the silicone-infused version if you think water will be an issue, or for some extra protection.  I didn't have any of those on hand, so just used the regular ones like link.
As they're low voltage, they don't need to be in any particular box, etc., just dress them so they're out of the way and secured, and you're probably fine.  Mine are zip tied to the rail support, and then zip tied to an electrical conduit until they're into the garage ceiling.
RyanE

Don't disagree with the floor comment at all, never would use that way.

But they do work well at the top of the door, and their design allows for a wide gap margin as well.
Magnet L brace screwed into the top edge of the door with the sensor on the wall behind it when closed, wires dress well to the side to a ZIO or similar. Particularly with wall mounted openers where the AC is right there for the ZIO.

And rail sensor are nice, and more practical when using dual sensors.

The armored is a few feat long and has the 2 conductor typical wire sticking out about a foot longer than the armor. Splice and dress as you wish.
Like this one has a picture of wire, different sensor, usually installed as 1 at top of door.
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Ademco-958-Overhead-Contacts/dp/B0006M1I1W/ref=pd_sbs_1/138-1764450-5871611?pd_rd_w=2ecPU&pf_rd_p=0a3ad226-8a77-4898-9a99-63ffeb1aef90&pf_rd_r=VKSV0E7DP9MBTJC91FVV&pd_rd_r=52a1d9af-a57a-4ff4-851e-1a4b376d8042&pd_rd_wg=JYXIz&pd_rd_i=B0006M1I1W&th=1

Seems to me that a dealer would be the right path in this case, as if it's defective, they could do an RMA or other repair process.
RyanE

Seems to me that a dealer would be the right path in this case, as if it's defective, they could do an RMA or other repair process.
RyanE

it was a fair response with both pros and cons so no need to cue "why do you post here" - the OP is looking for critical feedback which you gave
I've had the system for 7+ years now.  Like anything else it has its strengths and weaknesses.  I never really looked at the competition too - if I were to do it again I'd really interview the dealer/integrator and probably compare it to Savant.
If you aren't chasing the latest hardware and the latest firmware/OS update every day and you want a rock solid system to cover lighting, AV, HVAC, Security and everything else and you seek automation vs control, C4 is a great option.  If you like to tinker and want to buy every piece of hardware you see at a big box store and integrate it that day for control, C4 may not be for you.

Not exactly correct, Control4 uses the standard Zigbee Pro join pre-shared key, but Control4 does require an additional Zigbee Cluster, which 3rd party devices do not support, and also requires a driver for the device be found during the join process, or the device is kicked off of Control4's mesh.
Due to these 2 incompatibilities, Control4's Zigbee mesh does not let 'external' 3rd-party devices join.
RyanE

Not exactly correct, Control4 uses the standard Zigbee Pro join pre-shared key, but Control4 does require an additional Zigbee Cluster, which 3rd party devices do not support, and also requires a driver for the device be found during the join process, or the device is kicked off of Control4's mesh.
Due to these 2 incompatibilities, Control4's Zigbee mesh does not let 'external' 3rd-party devices join.
RyanE

The room runs at a Temperature of no higher than 26 degrees (78F). The case also has a thermal probe as there is some other advanced equipment in there and it is currently reading 30 degrees (86F).  

We actually DID take the time to develop what is probably the worlds most configurable Screen Saver (SplashTiles).  You can do exactly what you were asking for, with lots of panel (tiles in our lingo) options to choose from.
Works on all Android devices, so it "should" work on the C4 touchscreens.  Has anyone ever tried it?  It is actually free.....   I don't have a C4 touchscreen.
Never made an IOS version.  

Of course they can, and I can disagree with them. Oh wait, right, no I can't.
Actually curious on how me saying that I doubt an (3rd party) app developer is going to make an app that would involve a lot of work for a very small audience has anything to do with C4 in your mind at all?

That's crazy.  It's like they're making their stuff *less* universal.
I'd bet dollars for donuts that if you cut it at the 'cut' line, you could scrape off the coating and find the exact same 4 pads that you could use elsewhere, but it wouldn't have "their" connector on it.
RyanE

There have been some reports of success, but lots of failures too.  Apparently one reason it's difficult is that the Kasa LED strips are addressable with multiple zones.

That's crazy.  It's like they're making their stuff *less* universal.
I'd bet dollars for donuts that if you cut it at the 'cut' line, you could scrape off the coating and find the exact same 4 pads that you could use elsewhere, but it wouldn't have "their" connector on it.
RyanE

I think if I was to show my implementation to the general public they would call it a hack.  Wires that I soldered to a remote   It works great, I have no complaints.  The point I'm trying to make is that Control4 does a really good job of integrating with the biggest brands in the home and there is a gap when it comes to LM.  

aka hacks...there are no such thing as authorized open source use of MyQ

Like most of the topics on this forum. This topic is back in the spotlight with the myQ upgrade to the v6 of their API.  This broke a lot of the open source integrations as they deprecated their v5. 

Sorry for the delayed reply, all. When things get busy with work or personally, C4 is the first to go, ha.
So, I'll come right our and say it: I'm embarrassed -- I somehow grossly miscalculated the battery life of my (above) design. I must have misread, dropped a zero, or both, because after putting one of these modified candles on the multimeter, it's drawing enough current to last a little over a month on the 'stock' D batteries vs. a year. After going back and checking, this is consistent with the published specs., so my best guess is I erred on the battery capacity (as I have no experience/frame of reference to 'gut check').
While I'm running these outside right now and think it might be good enough for this season (since I change-out a few other batteries regularly), it totally crushes the use case I mention above. Therefore, I'm guessing most won't be interested, for now.
Not sure I'm going to take the project on immediately, but there are a few (more commercially-oriented vendors) that sell low-power/'wake-up' alternatives to the RF receiver I noted above. In theory, with those and the same setup, it would last a year.
Apologies again for the letdown. And happy to report back with both how long this flawed design lasts and when/if I experiment with a low-power/'wake up' receiver.

Do you not get tired of yourself?