RyanE

Mine did something similar after a few years of being in direct sunlight.  They replaced it under warranty…

give yale a call about the screen, i had a client that had thier lock for 5 years and they replaced the screen

I've never heard of the need of protective coatings on the touchpanel keypads.
RyanE

They had a bad batch of plastics for the keypad a number of years ago.  I have a couple that went that way fairly quickly.
I'd ask Yale if they had some kind of special deal on replacing them, since they were a manufacturing issue, imho.  Worst they could say is 'no'.
I had pretty good success using a headlight polishing kit on the keypad of one of mine, still worked fine.
RyanE

Personally for Theater I love my Neeo. I know some don't like the lack of hard buttons but I don't mind. Prefer the sleek look and modern design. 

I 100% disagree.
I worked for free back in 2008 just to learn.  I worked nights in law enforcement, and worked during the day with a couple of C4 dealers at the time.  This turned into a full time job, which turned into another full time job, which turned into running a company, which led to software emphasis, which led to Engineering, which led to me making nearly triple what I did starting off in this business.  This also allowed me to give back to the C4 community that I came from.
 
Just because you trade your time for experience, doesn't make you a chump.  There are always multiple pathways to a destination, and not everyone is so one-dimensional.  Granted, I didn't ultimately end up in AV or Custom Integration, but looking back, I'd do it all over again, best decision I ever made.
 
TLDR:  You make your own path.

It's missing by design.
While Director is looping through your Composer code, nothing else is happening in the system.  It's easy to lock up Director.  It was decided early on that HE would not have the functionality.
The best way to do it (whether you have it available or not) is to use a timer.  Start a timer, then check the condition on each timer tick.
Though I have ComposerPro, I don't believe I have a single while loop in my Composer code.
RyanE

It's missing by design.
While Director is looping through your Composer code, nothing else is happening in the system.  It's easy to lock up Director.  It was decided early on that HE would not have the functionality.
The best way to do it (whether you have it available or not) is to use a timer.  Start a timer, then check the condition on each timer tick.
Though I have ComposerPro, I don't believe I have a single while loop in my Composer code.
RyanE

Timer timer timer.
Too many support calls I'm sure, even with it only being available in Pro.
A timer allows you to set the actual interval (ie toggle a light every 200 ms - or every 2 seconds) AND more easily change it at that (by just changing the timer length)

Hi RyanE,
FYI, it took some time to get our Gira KNX IP gateway (2168 00) replaced with a Gira KNX IP router (2167 00), but indeed it seems that solved the problem.
Many thanks for your advice !
Best,
Niko

No worries.  The reason a static IP address is sometimes preferable for the Samsung TVs is that if they're addressed via SDDP, the TV doesn't send SDDP until some time in it's boot process, after when it could accept an IP connection.
Using a static IP instead of SDDP can possibly allow the driver to connect quicker.
RyanE
 

The MAC address you see in properties is not the addressing, that's used for Wake On Lan (WoL).
The way it's addressed is found in the Connections -> Network settings, not in properties.
No drivers address IP devices by their MAC address.  That's not valid for anything outside the immediate physical network, so is not really valid for IP communication.
RyanE
 

Just in case that might be causing a confusion - under network connections you WILL see the mac addresses as port of the SDDP ID string as well - the point being, don't use that string, but use the static/reserved IP that the TVs (should) have.

Note that those MAC addresses DO need to be accurate for WoL to work - I've seen multiple instances where the TV was setup on WiFi, identified into the system that way, and THEN they got hardwired (messing up the WoL)

Have you tried Neil.ai.?    It's actually just an Etch-A-Sketch wired to a 12v car battery, but it's poised to take the industry by storm sir.

It certainly does reduce power output (max power up to +14dBm for Channel 25, up to +18dBm for all others), but it's also the only channel that's nearly completely outside of Wifi interference.
We use it at shows, where there are literally hundreds of access points within spitting distance, and it works fine.
It's what I use at home as well, and I've never had an issue with it.
It's very likely most nodes would not be transmitting at full power most of the time anyway.
If you want to avoid Channel 25, 15 and 20 are next best options, as they're mostly out of the 'common' Wifi channels (1, 6, 11).
RyanE
 

25 is usually the best choice because it bypasses interference. At lesst it's a good starter choice for that reason. If interference isn't the issue, but range/penetration or possibly amount of hops is, channels other than 25 can be a better choice due to the higher db, but as per Ryan above, 24 isn't your best choice, we usually use 20 unless there's a lot of overlap, then 15

It certainly does reduce power output (max power up to +14dBm for Channel 25, up to +18dBm for all others), but it's also the only channel that's nearly completely outside of Wifi interference.
We use it at shows, where there are literally hundreds of access points within spitting distance, and it works fine.
It's what I use at home as well, and I've never had an issue with it.
It's very likely most nodes would not be transmitting at full power most of the time anyway.
If you want to avoid Channel 25, 15 and 20 are next best options, as they're mostly out of the 'common' Wifi channels (1, 6, 11).
RyanE
 

It certainly does reduce power output (max power up to +14dBm for Channel 25, up to +18dBm for all others), but it's also the only channel that's nearly completely outside of Wifi interference.
We use it at shows, where there are literally hundreds of access points within spitting distance, and it works fine.
It's what I use at home as well, and I've never had an issue with it.
It's very likely most nodes would not be transmitting at full power most of the time anyway.
If you want to avoid Channel 25, 15 and 20 are next best options, as they're mostly out of the 'common' Wifi channels (1, 6, 11).
RyanE
 

move zigbee to channel 25 and be done

totally different issue

Try googling "Cisco cable box ir receiver" or something like that.  I use a glue gun to glue the ir bud onto the plastic lens right by the IR receiver.

Don't believe those are technically compatible with OS3.

There is also EventGhost.  It's a free Windows automation program, which you can use to send keystrokes, mouse movements, and a lot of other functionality (starting / bring apps to the front, etc.).
There is also a Webserver plugin which allows you to control EventGhost using http commands.
I used it about 10 years ago to automate a PC that ran presentation software using Control4 and the former Flash UI on a touchscreen TV.  It was pretty slick.
RyanE

just to add on...  if you have an existing alarm system with multiple zone capability, you can set up a "garage" zone that's separate from the rest of the house. That way you only enable/disable the alarm for cabinets when you need to.