pre-wire for motorized blinds

[tilimil]

Getting ready to build and want to pre-wire for low voltage motorized blinds although I probably won't install them day 1. I am thinking I need some 18/3 for power and cat5 for control just in case. Would this be adequate? How should I trim out wiring out at the window? I have searched here and avsforums with no luck. Thinking I just use some sort of grommet and leave the wire loose in the manual blinds for day1?

Thanks.

[CFUG]

^That won't pass inspection for your CoO. Are you sure you need 120VAC? What size window?

[3fingerbrown]

Running cat5 and power (research your blinds to see what type of power, I think 120VAC is necessary) should have you covered. I would just put the power and cat5 in a single gang receptacle and put a blank wall plate on it until you use it.

FYI, I'm retrofitting some shutters in my house that will be battery powered. Because shutters need only be tilted, not lifted all the way up, I'm told that battery power can suffice for motorization. For blinds though, I would definitely go hard wired.

http://www.c4forums.com/viewtopic.php?id=4484

[d.jakes]

I've got Hunter Douglas blinds in my Great Room. We ran 16/4 to each window location, actually only need 16/2, but just incase. The blinds operate on 12 vdc, and reverse the voltage to go up or down. The controller itself is downstairs in the media closet and is ir controlled by one of the C4 controllers there. There are 2 blinds of pretty good size 7' x 7' and 2 others are 3' x 7' and some others. Works great.

[NkySpike65]

How about having your builder put in 3/4 or 1" section of PVC that opens where the shade (inside the window's framing) will be mounted and the other opening hook to it own receptacle box next to an outlet.

Basically a mini chase.

This way no matter AC, DC, Cat5/6 you will always be able to pull new wire thought...

[tilimil]

I've got Hunter Douglas blinds in my Great Room. We ran 16/4 to each window location, actually only need 16/2, but just incase. The blinds operate on 12 vdc, and reverse the voltage to go up or down. The controller itself is downstairs in the media closet and is ir controlled by one of the C4 controllers there. There are 2 blinds of pretty good size 7' x 7' and 2 others are 3' x 7' and some others. Works great.

This is exactly what I want to do. How/where did you get the wires to the motor? I was thinking about just putting a 1/4-1/2" hole on the top inside of the window sill. Any reason this wont work? Any electrical code considerations? I was thinking this wouldn't be a concern if I do 12vdc low voltage.

Mind sharing some pics of how you did it?

Thanks.

[d.jakes]

More than happy to share it with you.....After the windows where installed, but before the insulation guys got there, we drilled a 3/8" hole 1 1/2" down from the top jamb of the window and an 1" in from the glass. Left 8" of cable exposed on the jamb side of the window, then ran the cable down the wall between the window jamb and the framing members. Drill a hole in the horizontal framing member at the bottom and youre home free. You're now in a stud bay and can go where ever you want with it. The blinds cover the 3/8" hole in the window jamb and the wire right into the side of the blind itself. Really clean. If the windows werent 16 feet off of the ground, I'd crawl up there and take a picture for you. As far as being a code issue, there is none. All the inspectors I know could care less about low voltage stuff. Especially DC stuff. E-mail me if you need more info. Model #'s of blinds, etc.....

[CFUG]

^Yeah, that's what I thought too. I looked at other muni building codes and it does vary but it is never a good idea to leave dangling wires for a CoO inspector. Some of these guys could give a crap about what you are going to do later.